Dear Reader,

Sydney’s harbourside mansions might impress with their $20 million price tags and enviable positions.
But compare them with the $130 million yalis‚ (waterside mansions) which dot the shores of the Bosphorus, Istanbul’s legendary waterway, and we’re speaking an altogether different language.

The very word yali‚ comes from the Greek yialos, or seashore, and conjures up images of  the grand wooden houses owned by wealthy Ottoman families during the 18th and 19th centuries.  
Built for pleasure and prestige, they’re perched on the water’s edge, their cantilevered bay windows jutting out over the water. As in Venice (where there is no tide), rooms were built on the same level as the water so that those inside could enjoy the sights, sounds and play of reflected light on the water.  
During the Tulip Period (1718-1730) such villas formed a necklace of pearls around the Bosphorus but fell into disrepair or burned down once the Ottoman Empire collapsed.
Today many of these old yalis‚ have been reclaimed by a new generation of wealthy Istanbullus who have once again transformed them into stately pleasure domes.
Their refurbishment reflects Istanbul’s 21st century incarnation as an increasingly lively and trendy destination – the latest European hot spot, according to The New York Times, following in the tradition of Prague and, more recently, Berlin.

Just as a visit to Sydney is not complete without a trip around the harbour, so a visit to Istanbul is not complete without a boat ride along the Bosphorus. Both cities are intersected by numerous waterways which can be disorientating for the first time visitor, but while Sydney Harbour divides the northern from the southern suburbs, the Bosphorus marks the crossroads of civilization. Europe ends and Asia begins here, making it one of the world’s most historic waterways.
Heroic adventurers like Jason and the Argonauts sailed through its menacing waters in their search for the Golden Fleece and Ulysses is also reputed to have travelled here.  

Greek legend tells the story of Io, Zeus’ favourite mistress. Zeus turned Io into a beautiful cow as a disguise to protect her from his wife Hera. Jealous Hera, however,  sent horseflies to sting and torment her. Io wandered the earth in an attempt to flee the pests and on her travels, still in the form of a cow, crossed the straits, giving the waters the name by which they have been known ever since.

In ancient Greek, bous‚ means cow‚ and poros‚ is crossing place – or Ford of the Cow.

Whether you take a ferry ride or guided boat tour, an afternoon spent cruising the Bosphorus is an unforgettable experience. Orhan Pamuk, the famous Turkish novelist, spent much of his early childhood in a rowboat with his mother and brother musing over its dark mysteries. In his recently published memoirs  “Istanbul: Memories Of A City”, he writes of its beauty and poetry:
“The Bosphorus sings of life, pleasure and happiness.  Istanbul draws its strength from the Bosphorus.”
 

And it’s not just the wealth concentrated in the elegant yalis‚ and summer palaces which is so breathtaking, it’s also the sense that you’re gliding over liquid history.  – for this narrow 30 kilometre stretch of water which links the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles has determined not only Istanbul’s history but that of the many territories under its rule at one time or another.  
If you have time, you could easily spend two or three days exploring the various sights. Make sure not to miss:
Dolmabahce Palace – the opulent Baroque/Rococco palace built  between 1843-1856 to replace Topkapi Palace. Easy to mistake as a smaller model of the palace of Versailles in France. Set aside 1 - 1 1/2 hours for a guided tour.
Ciragan Palace Hotel – built in the mid 19th century by Sultan Abdulaziz, the best way to see this magnificent palace (now restored as the elegant Cirigan Palace Hotel Kempinski) is by boat.
Rumeli Hisar – situated at the narrowest part of the Bosphorus, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror ordered this great fortress to be built so that he could control commercial and military traffic in preparation for the siege of Constantinople.  These days its fabulous setting is used for open-air summer concerts.

Bebek, Ortakoy and Arnavutkoy – charming little villages around the foreshores of the Bosphorus which are playgrounds of the rich and famous.  At Divan, a swish patisserie in Bebek, make sure you try the delectable pastries and lavishly packaged Turkish Delight.    
And if that hasn’t made you swoon, try a ride on a specially designed Sultan’s boat.
Even if you can’t afford one of those multi million dollar yalis‚ you’ll get to see Istanbul through the eyes of a Sultan on seats covered with silk and velvet and accompanied by oarsmen in full costume.
 
Sheridan Rogers flew to Istanbul as a guest of Turkish Airlines and travelled with Grethe Knudsen’s “Turkey: Crossroads of Civilization” tour.

For more details contact her on 02 9899 2740 or grethe@bigpond.net.au <mailto:grethe@bigpond.net.au> .  
Turkish Airlines (ex Bangkok) :
Ph. 02 9299 8400 www.turkishairlines.com

 

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