November 2004
Dear Reader
It's early evening on a winter's night in Pokolbin, the heart of Hunter wine country. A mist has settled over the valley making it difficult to find our way in the dark. As we turn off Broke Road, a half moon appears through the clouds casting its diffuse light over the Tower Estate Winery. Further along we spot the entrance to Tower Estate Lodge which is delineated by two short walls. Behind these are two tall black French lanterns and then a row of upright garden lights which stand like sentinels along the road to guide us in.
The Lodge emerges through the fog, its austere façade reminding me of a fortified medieval village, an impression which is almost instantly dispelled by the spotlit eucalypts and raked Japanese-style circular garden outside the front. If this sounds surreal, it’s just preparation for what you will find when you push open the massive 19th century French coach doors and enter inside.
Tower Lodge is the brainchild of Australian winemaking legend Len Evans who is part-owner along with 13 other prominent business friends. It is Evans’ unique stamp, however, which helps to explain the Lodge’s luxurious eclectic personality. You'll find nothing like it elsewhere. Even the grand European-style lobby with its ornate wooden sideboard, mirror, rugs and antique chairs yields little idea of what lies beyond. "Some people describe it as a fortified Spanish hacienda," says Evans, referring to the central outdoor courtyard with its limestone paving, ornate fountain and columns. "Others say it’s Mexican, still others that it reminds them of Marrakesh or Santa Fe. What I liked was the idea of a village built around a square which helps to explain the narrow streets and the columns," he muses. "It could even be the courtyard of a Roman villa."
There are 12 large sumptuous suites at The Lodge, each of which is just off the courtyard and is decorated in a highly individual style. One of the most popular is the 'Oriental' room which comprises a long corridor with polished wooden floors, panelled walls, a sumptuous king bed and lacquered Chinese antiques. Crisp white sheets on the bed are hand-embroidered with flowers. The generous bathroom includes a spa bath with separate shower and dressing room, fluffy white robes and 'Aveda' toiletries. An outdoor wooden hot tub makes this a favourite with newlyweds who strew the water with rose petals from the nearby rose garden. Another room, the 'Chairman’s Suite' - is a freestanding building complete with Tower and viewing platform. The bedroom features a 300 year old hand-carved Rajasthani bed, marble bathroom, separate sitting room with antique leather chairs and an open fireplace. Definitely one for the C.E.O.
In our suite (Room 1), a large private courtyard leads into an opulent split-level room complete with large fireplace, dramatic purple-striped satin sofa, elegant French court-style armchairs, antique desk and dolls house. And guess what? It has a tower. "All the spaces within the Lodge are furnished with rich fabrics, antiques, treasures, collectibles and old timbers just as you would expect to find in an exclusive house or chateau," says Evans. In the lounge in the main building, an enormous sandstone fireplace crowned with a lustrous paua shell-encrusted mirror typifies the eclectic mix. A variety of elegant embroidered chairs and sofas surround the fireplace and there’s a well-stocked bar off to the side. A grand dining room is situated at the other end, separated by huge 100-year old recycled Queensland bridge timbers, necessary to support the roof structure.
It is in this baronial-like hall that breakfast is served during colder months (in summer you can sit outside on the portico). A generous buffet set out on a long wooden table includes a variety of fruit juices, cereals and muesli, poached pears with cinnamon, stewed rhubarb and yogurt. The hot menu comprises eggs (fried, baked, scrambled, poached) with bacon, Italian sausages, tomatoes and field mushrooms; traditional eggs Benedict or Florentine; pots of tea and espresso coffee. You’ll need a hearty breakfast before setting out for a day’s wine tasting in the valley. But don't leave before checking out the cosy, vault-like library with its hand-carved wooden chess game, nor the outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, gym and massage room, the tower with its quirky medieval steps – and the underground cellar. This is definitely a place where you can indulge in feeling like lord of the manor for a day or two.
