Is salt still a forbidden four letter word? Yes, if you listen to nutritionists who will tell you that we are still eating more than we should and point to the hidden salt in foods like bread, breakfast cereals, cheese, ham, olives and biscuits. No, if you observe what top chefs around the country are putting on their dining tables. Tim Pak Poy at Claude's in Sydney's eastern suburbs and Aaron Ross down at The Wharf offer customers peachy pink salt flakes to dust over their meals. Its colour and flavour come from naturally occurring minerals like magnesium, iron and calcium as well as other elements from the brine resulting in a gentle earthy taste and fabulous designer colour.

At a salt tasting dinner in New York late last year in which Maldon sea salt, 'fleur de sel' (flower of salt), Japanese Nazuna sea salt and Danish smoked salt were compared, the Murray River flakes were a hit. Salt has become chic. So chic that foodies like Jeffrey Steingarten have gone to the trouble of acquiring little square walnut boxes in which to keep their treasure trove of 'fleur de sel', an airy white salt from Guerande in France. This, he confesses, he puts on the table only when dining in Europe.

Some chefs use salt to enhance the flavour of their desserts. At Fleur de Sel restaurant in downtown New York, chef Cyril Renaud adds 'fleur de sel' to the chocolate-caramel filling in his Chocolate Gaufrettes and Raspberry Feuillettes. Renaud says this gives his desserts a lovely clean flavour.

You're probably wondering what all the fuss is about. I mean, really, doesn't all salt taste the same? I'd suggest you make up your own mind by sampling a few varieties like Maldon sea salt, Murray River gourmet salt flakes (and also their Golden Grinding Salt) and a supermarket pouring salt. Sprinkle each one over steamed potatoes or boiled eggs and see what you think. Remember that the current recommended daily intake is about one teaspoon, so don't overdo it. Mind you, I wouldn't go to the expense of using any of the boutique salts in my pasta cooking water because once dissolved, they all taste the same.

 

Back in Old Testament times, salt was a highly prized commodity and recommended as an offering to God. Phrases like 'salt of the earth' (coined by Jesus), 'worth his salt' and 'below the salt' reveal the esteem in which it was held.

Its very name comes from the Roman god of health, Salus, from which evolved words like 'salutary' and 'salute' - originally a gesture meant to express a wish of good health for the person saluted - not to mention 'salvation'.

Frankly I couldn't do without a little salt around the rim of a Margarita. Nor could I do without flaky salt on my eggs, tomatoes or potatoes. And how would we make Moroccan preserved lemons or gravlax without salt? Or these luscious semi dried tomatoes. For these you'll need ripe red plum tomatoes, washed, dried and cut in half lengthwise.

Scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon, leaving the central membrane in position, and place cut side up on cake racks over a baking tray. Sprinkle with flaky salt and some thyme leaves. Insert a few peeled garlic cloves in between the tomatoes. Place the trays in a convection oven set at the lowest temperature (50 degrees Celsius) - it needs to be low enough to enable you to put your hand in without burning - and leave to dry for 10 - 12 hours.

The time will vary depending on your oven and the juiciness of the tomatoes. If your oven is too warm they will cook rather than dry. The first batch will require experimentation - some may require more time. They should be dry and fleshy but not leathery. Remove from the oven and cool, then place in sterilised jars with a branch of thyme and a few peppercorns. Cover with olive oil and seal.

Store in the refrigerator. Toss through pasta dishes with goat's cheese, slivered black olives and torn basil or serve on bruschetta. Added salt is optional.

 

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