Dear Reader

Have you ever smelt hot cross buns baking in a home oven? If you have, you won't have forgotten for the aroma is irresistible.

And if you've actually eaten a spicy, buttery but-oh-so-light bun, fresh from the oven, you'd find it hard - if not downright impossible - to go back to those tasteless doughy squares wrapped in plastic from the supermarket. They fall into the fillers-for-kids category - and aren't very nutritious at that!

These soft, small, plump, sweet, fermented cakes belong to the English baking tradition. According to Elizabeth David in English Bread and Yeast Cookery, such spice buns became popular in Tudor times (late 15th century).

According to Christian tradition, Good Friday is the day to make hot cross buns at home which still makes sense in the 21st century because for most of us it is a day of leisure at home with family. During the 18th century, hot cross buns became a specialty for Good Friday breakfast and were made extra spicy and rich with fruit and marked with a cross as a sign of Easter.

Apart from the obvious symbolism of the cross (which was carried over from pre-Reformation days), there are those who also see it as a picture of quadrants showing the four seasons.

But it's not just the smell and taste of home-baked hot cross buns which is so alluring, it's also the making and baking. For what can be more magical than the transformation which occurs when flour and yeast and water come together? And what can be more sensual than kneading a sweet, aromatic dough and patting it into shape? Only caressing a soft pink baby's bottom can match that. And then that marvelous fragrance which wafts through the house and out the door and up the street - it's one of the best ways to make new friends.

Yeast cookery, however, does require patience and some practice. Whether you use fresh (compressed) or dried yeast in the following recipes, make sure it is mixed with warm liquid (approx. blood heat) and a little sugar until frothy and creamy (10 - 15 minutes) and then mixed into the dry ingredients. Yeast is a living organism and requires food, warmth and moisture to grow. A strong (high gluten) plain flour is best for this type of cookery. Make sure all ingredients are at room temperature, including the flour, and be patient with the rising (proving) stages which will vary according to the temperature of the day. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a clean tea-towel and leave in a warm place to double in bulk. Test for proper rising by pressing two fingers gently into the dough - if the indentations remain, the dough is fully risen.

Make sure the oven is preheated before popping them in the oven - then sit back and sing "One-a-penny, two-a-penny, hot-cross buns".

Hot Cross Buns

Yeast cookery is always very satisfying, but it does take time. Allow yourself half a day to master all the steps. Once made and baked, these buns can be stored in the freezer until you're ready to eat them.

500g unbleached plain flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 (half) teaspoon mixed spice
1 teaspoon salt
60g softened unsalted butter
30g fresh yeast (or 2 sachets dried)
100g sugar
125 ml each warm water and milk
1 beaten egg
1/4 (quarter) cup each mixed dried peel & currants (or use sultanas)

Paste:

6 tablespoons SR flour
3 tablespoons water

Glaze:

2 tablespoons water
1 1/2 (one and a half) tablespoons sugar

Method

Sift together the dry ingredients into a large mixing bowl. Rub through the butter using the tips of your fingertips until finely distributed. Make a well in the centre of the flour/butter.

In a small bowl, cream the yeast with a little of the sugar and warm water/milk mixture. When creamed, add the sugar and remaining liquid and stir to combine. Leave for 10-15 mins to prove. Pour the yeast mixture into the well in the flour mixture. Add the egg and the dried fruit. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until mixture is well combined.

Turn out onto a floured board or marble slab. If the dough is sticky, knead in some more flour. Knead for ten minutes or until smooth and satiny. Place in a lightly oiled bowl and brush a little oil over the top of the dough. Cover with plastic wrap and a tea towel and leave to prove (rise) in a warm place for 11/2 (one and a half) hours or until doubled in bulk (time will depend on how warm it is).

Preheat oven to 190 degrees Celsius.

Turn out of the bowl, punch down and divide into 14-16 pieces. Form each piece into a roll and place on a tray lined with non-stick baking paper. Cover and leave to prove again for 30 minutes.

Using a sharp knife, make a cross shape in the tops of the rolls before baking (this step is optional). Pipe a cross shape into the indent using a paste made from self-raising flour and water. Alternatively, wait until the rolls have been baked and are cool and pipe on a cross made with icing sugar and water.

Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and whilst still warm, brush over the glaze. For the glaze, combine the sugar and water in a small pan and heat until sugar is dissolved. Brush over warm buns.

Tip: If you have a bread-making machine, you can save yourself a lot of time making these buns - follow manufacturer's instructions.

Makes 14-16 buns.

 

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