A sunny winter’s day on the Isle of Pines, an idyllic island south-east of Noumea, New Caledonia. A light breeze is ruffling the palm fronds, carrying with it the irresistibly sweet smell of lobsters grilling.

We were running late for lunch because the little white and turquoise fisherman’s shack in the secluded bay around from our resort hadn’t been easy to find. But once the scent hit our noses, we knew we were on track. The lobsters had been caught that morning just outside the coral reef and were presented in their bright orange shells accompanied by wedges of lime and a mound of rice. We sat, with our feet dangling in the fine white sand, relishing the simplicity of the meal and feasting our eyes on the crystal-clear blue and green waters beyond.

Kougny restaurant, situated on Oro Bay on the east coast of this small South Pacific island, can only be reached by sea or foot. Its very seclusion is part of its charm as is Le Meridien resort where we were staying for two nights. Opened six years ago, this exquisite boutique hotel sits on its own islet in the middle of a large coconut grove surrounded by a luxuriant garden. The central reception pavilion, modelled on indigenous Melanesian structures, looks out over a curvaceous swimming pool to a string of soaring Araucaria pines beyond.

Nestled in the gardens are 29 one bedroom Bungalow Suites, four of which have spectacular views over Oro Bay and private steps leading directly into the sea. Made of Kohu timber, the bungalows are warm and luxurious and offer every modern-day comfort. La Pirogue, the restaurant located in the main pavilion, offers buffet breakfast, casual barbecue lunch and a creative menu for a la carte dinners. Make sure you try the snails, which are unique to the island. And don’t miss the early morning trip to Upi Bay where you can sail on an outrigger, nor the glorious natural aquarium near the resort. Heaven.

It’s a twenty minute flight back to Noumea, capital of New Caledonia or “the little France of the Pacific” as it is often called by its neighbours. If you’re looking for a "French fix" a few hours from home, then this is the place to come. Situated in the south east of the Southern Province, it straddles one of the largest lagoons in the world which explains the numerous marinas in the pretty bays nearby and the fact that New Caledonia has one of the highest proportions of boat ownership in the world.

For foodies looking for a taste of France, there’s an array of good restaurants and places to visit. I’d suggest a picnic lunch overlooking Anse Vata Cove – purchase crispy fresh baguettes and pastries from Perfecta boulangerie, French chesses and mineral water from the Casino Supermarche and a selection of pates, terrines, foie gras and French wines from Comtesse du Barry. Finish with a few hand-made chocolates from Chocolats Morand.

If you'd prefer to be waited on, Restaurant le 1881 is good for lunch. Very charming and very French is La Chaumiere. The cooking here is traditional bourgeois and very delicious– we sampled a variety of the dishes including the rillettes de thon, fish mousse, foie gras, rabbit terrine and chicken supreme. If you’re looking for something more modern but still French and classy , try La Coupole. Clever interpretations by the chef of dishes like crab cannelloni (wrapped in cucumber) and tuna with a citrus-flavoured caramel sauce make this something of an eye-opener. Don’t miss the spectacular warm apple tart.

 

Another top fine dining restaurant is L'Hippocampe at Le Meridien Noumea. Service here is attentive and the food of a high standard. Opposite L'Hippocampe is Le Sextant, open daily for breakfasts and themed buffet dinners. Opened in 1995, Le Meridien is Noumea’s only luxury resort hotel and the only one with a beach frontage. Its two curved main white buildings are reminiscent of a ship in design and there are nautical features throughout. The overall feeling is a blend of traditional French-European sophistication with the open fresh feel of the South Pacific. A change of décor in the guestrooms began in 2002 and is on-going. All rooms offer a private balcony with views of the lagoon, gardens or pool.

Tennis, sailing, swimming, scuba diving, kayaking, windsurfing and snorkelling are just some of the activities you can participate in. Most spectacular – and strenuous – of all is kite-surfing in the clear warm waters of the lagoon. This aquatic playground also boasts an abundance of islands. Hire a catamaran or motorboat for the day, with or without skipper, and discover some of these jewels. A water taxi will get you out to Duck Island where you can literally walk under water. A little further out is Escapade Island, 15 minutes by water taxi from the city, and easily recognisable by its 25 spectacular overwater bungalow suites.

It is on this islet, set in the heart of an 800 acre marine reserve, that you’ll find New Caledonia’s newest and most exclusive luxury resort, Coral Palms. The overwater bungalows, completed in March 2004, offer spectacular views over the pristine lagoon and their ultra-modern Italianate interiors provide every comfort. A further 44 garden bungalows have been refurbished and there is a new swim-up pool bar and stunning fine-dining restaurant. The food here is stylishly presented and the combinations are imaginative.

For those looking for a quick 3 – 4 day break, New Caledonia has much to tantalise the well-heeled traveller and much that is new to excite those who have visited here before.

www.newcaledoniatourism-south.com
www.caledoniahotelresorts.com

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