Dear Reader,

Driving along the narrow winding roads of the lush Byron Bay hinterland in northern NSW, windows down, singing along to the radio and going nowhere in particular, is one of life’s great pleasures. In summer, with cicadas in full chorus, warm humid air rushing through your hair and glimpses of paradise at almost every turn, such journeys induce a meditative, if not trance-like, state of mind.

What a bonus then to stumble across The Tin Dog one late afternoon just as dusk was falling and the wind beginning to blow though the tree tops. Set on five acres of lush sub-tropical gardens this secluded B&B just down the road from the tiny village of Federal was like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Marked by blue and mauve Tibetan prayer flags, an understated sign and a real live cow in the front paddock, it’s easy to miss.

I had been told about it by some locals on my travels through rainbow country and was lucky to find one of the garden rooms available that night (but please note: it would be wise to book well ahead as word is spreading quickly and there are only four bedrooms).

Greeted at the door by owners Sue and Mark Kelly, I was shown to my spacious high-ceiling room with its view through palm trees to a 12 metre swimming pool and luxuriant rainforest beyond. Polished timber floors and a white-on-white colour scheme offset by brown silk cushions and modern pine furniture (made locally in Lismore) create a clean minimalist feel. In the en-suite bathroom, sparkling white and aqua tiles and thick soft snowy white towels and bathrobes add to the clean green ambience.

The Kelly’s attention to detail is noteworthy – there’s a plate of irresistible home-made biscuits in one of the cabinets along with a selection of tea bags and white mugs, and in the fridge there’s fresh coffee and a jug of milk. On the shelf above, mosquito coils, matches, candles, mosquito spray, a torch, a hair dryer and towels for the pool ensure a comfortable stay and best of all, there’s no TV or telephone in the rooms (and mobile reception is poor).

In the morning, when I awake, the wholesome aroma of poached plums drifts into my room luring me from a sweet dream. Birds call. A slight breeze rustles in the Bangalow palms. Breakfast is served on the timber verandah of the old Federation house under striped canvas umbrellas.

 

An exquisite platter of finely sliced fruits is set before me – I can count at least ten different varieties including longans, cherries, watermelon, mango, nectarine, passionfruit and the poached plums in a tiny white bowl. A bowl of yogurt is served on the side. This was followed by a luscious dish of scrambled eggs tossed with fresh herbs baked in a ramekin lined with smoked salmon and served with sliced avocado drizzled with lemon myrtle-infused macadamia oil.

There’s fruit toast with local honey and home-made banana bread - if you can fit it in. And freshly squeezed orange juice, and freshly brewed tea and coffee. Sue worked in hospitality and had her own small cake and bikkie business in Sydney before moving north two years ago with partner Mark – and her professionalism shows.

"We were both looking for a sea change" she says. "We were delighted when we found this wonderful property a few years ago. We’ve kept it comfortable and homely and furnished it with things we love."

There are four bedrooms in all, two of which are garden pavilions. The other two are in the old house, each with its own unique character. The Cedar Room has deep red walls and an old fashioned timber bathroom with clawfoot bath. Two sitting rooms, replete with Afghan rugs, comfy sofas, eclectic antiques, TV, CD player, books, games and tin toys provide ample relaxation space. And for those who really want to escape, there’s a summer pavilion with lazy hammock on the other side of the creek.

www.thetindog.com.au

 

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