A Postcard on Three Aussie Winery Chefs

Clare Falconer - Meadowbank Estate

Tasmania Clare Falconer has been head chef at Meadowbank Estate since the opening of the Estate in July 2000. During this time the Estate has won the Tasmanian Tourism award for Best Tourism Winery and the Best Tourism Restaurant 2001. Clare uses as much local produce as possible in the restaurant. "I like to use Barilla Bay oysters because I can see the beds from the kitchen," she says. "You can't get fresher than that!"

The kitchen at Meadowbank is open plan and, as with the restaurant, looks down across sweeping vineyards to the valley and river below. "It's very peaceful working here," she adds. The valley is abundant in stone fruits and Clare uses these when in season, especially the cherries. Other Tasmanian produce utilised in her menu include lettuces, rocket, spinach and bok choy from Houston Farm; goats cheese from Thorp Farm; raclette from Heidi Farm; honey brown mushrooms from the Huon Valley; fresh Tasmanian anchovies from Eagle Hawk Neck; Tasmanian Atlantic Salmon and ocean trout. Menus are changed to suit the season and each dish on the menu comes with a suggested Meadowbank wine.

Recommended with the oysters are either the Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling; a Pinot Noir with the Golden baby Thorp Farm goats cheese pie on a salad of fresh orange, date and spinach; and a Henry James Pinot Noir with the slow-cooked duck encased in brioche with wilted Asian greens, ginger and star anise braising jus.

Herb-Crusted Salmon on Slow Braised Peppers - Serves 4

4 fillets Tasmanian Atlantic Salmon
( about 170g each)
250g (2 cups) stale breadcrumbs
½ cup combined chopped parsley,
dill and tarragon
2 egg whites, lightly whisked
1 tbsp sea salt
100g baby spinach leaves, dressed with red wine vinaigrette
2 –3 tbsp vegetable oil
20g butter
1 lemon

Peppers:

3 red peppers or capsicums, seeded, chopped into 3cm cubes
3 yellow peppers or capsicums, seeded, chopped into 3cm cubes
4 whole anchovy fillets
3 cloves garlic, finely sliced
125ml fresh tomato sauce
80ml cup extra virgin olive oil
2 fresh bay leaves

For the salmon: combine the breadcrumbs and fresh herbs. Whisk egg whites until soft peaks form. Wipe salmon dry with paper towels. Dip each fillet into egg whites, then press on the herb mix. Sprinkle each crumbed fillet with the sea salt.

For the peppers: combine all the ingredients in a large pan, toss and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes until peppers are soft and the sauce is glossy, stirring occasionally.

To serve: Heat the oil and butter and shallow fry the salmon, approximately 2 ½ minutes on each side or until medium rare. Do this in two batches. Place dressed spinach leaves on each plate, top with braised peppers and the salmon. Finish with a squeeze of lemon and cracked pepper.

Recommended wines: Meadowbank Pinot Noir 2001 Meadowbank Grace Elizabeth Chardonnay 2001

Robyn Cooper - Grapefoodwine, A.C.T.

Set on a ridge about 30 minutes north of Canberra, Grapefoodwine sits in a surreal landscape with Lake George on one side and the ranges in the background. Chef Robyn Cooper has been at the restaurant for just on a year, having previously been in charge of the Members and Guests Kitchen at Parliament House. Last year it was awarded best restaurant in a winery in the National Restaurant and Catering Awards.

“I see the challenges of Grapefoodwine as very exciting,” says Cooper. “My aim is to create a very relaxed atmosphere of dining within the vines and to offer alternative weekend dining in the Canberra region.”

Copper’s food is classic, with clean lines and flavours and her dishes are seasonally inspired. When possible she uses fresh produce from the region complemented by Madew wines. The winery is renowned for premium cool-climate wines such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Shiraz and an experimental planting of Pinot Gris. The Madew Wines philosophy is simple: "We make wines that we like".

One of her favourite dishes is the Roast Asparagus with wild rocket, pecorino and smoked tomato pesto The smoked tomatoes are produced locally by Poachers Pantry in Hall, ACT, and the Capital Olive oil comes from a local company which press the olives at the winery.

 

Roast Asparagus, Wild Rocket, Pecorino and Smoked Tomato Pesto - Serves 2

50 ml Capital virgin olive oil
12 asparagus spears
20g shaved Parmesan
1 tbsp reduced balsamic vinegar
100g smoked tomatoes, in their oil
10 basil leaves
1 clove garlic

Garnish: 80g wild rocket, dressed with olive oil and vinegar Shaved Pecorino Smoked tomato pesto (see below)

Preheat oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Lightly peel asparagus stems with a vegetable peeler. Toss asparagus in olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a tray and roast 3 - 4 minutes until bright green and tender. Fan out the spears on warm plate. Top with wild rocket, shaved Pecorino and smoked tomato pesto. Drizzle with reduced balsamic and olive oil.

Smoked Tomato Pesto: Blend tomatoes, garlic and basil using the oil that the tomatoes are in Season with sea salt and cracked pepper. Mixture should be quite firm. Note: smoked tomatoes are available from gourmet delis but you can substitute semi-dried tomatoes though the flavour will be different.

Reduced Balsamic Vinegar: put 500ml balsamic into a pan, bring to the boil and simmer gently until thick and syrupy.

Recommended Wines: Madew Riesling 2001 Madew Chardonnay 2000.

Danny Angove - Vat 107, Margaret River W.A.

At Vat 107 in the main street of Margaret River, Western Australia, chef Dany Angove serves irresistible crunchy golden pieces of sweet honeycomb with coffee (in the mornings) and as a sidekick to a number of dishes on his dessert menu. It’s so popular that it’s become one of his signature items.

This is not honeycomb made by the bees. It’s that marvellous old-fashioned sweet combining caster sugar, honey glucose, water and bi-carbonate soda which causes it to froth up and makes it feather light. It’s fabulous broken into pieces and served with vanilla bean ice cream. Angove uses a karri flower honey from the Waggle Dance Honey Company in Denmark, south of Margaret River. It’s also used in his panforte and to sweeten smoothies and tea.

Originally from Perth, Angove has been at Vat 107 since it took the town by storm three years ago. He’s since become a convert to the local area. “It’s a real community and I love bumping into the locals,” he says. He sources cold-pressed olive oil, avocados, lemons, chestnuts and limes from Jack Witkin, a local farmer. “On my days off I often go out to Jack’s farm and have a barbecue.” Lamb comes from the Cloverdene Dairy who also supply organic sheep’s milk yoghurt and a variety of cheeses including pecorino, manchego and ewetego.

One of his most popular dishes is the Grilled Margaret River Organic Cloverdene Lamb Skewers with Tzatziki and Rocket in which he uses both the Cloverdene organic yoghurt and also their lamb. Excellent with a 2000 Cape Mentelle Shiraz. Other local products he uses include Albany Rock oysters and farmed Pemberton marron.

Honeycomb

325g (1 1/2 cups) caster sugar
50g (2 tbsp) good quality honey
125g (1/3 cup) liquid glucose
60ml water
15g (3 tsp) bi-carbonate soda

Line the base and sides of a lamington or Swiss roll tin with non-stick baking paper. Place the first four ingredients in a heavy based medium-large pan (it needs to have enough room to allow the mixture to rise to the top). Cover and bring slowly to simmering point, making sure the sugar has dissolved. Brush down any crystals on the side of the pan with a wet brush. Remove the lid, turn heat up to medium and simmer briskly until it becomes golden brown. Turn off the heat, whisk in the bi-carbonate soda and pour quickly onto the prepared tray. Leave to set then break into pieces. Store in an airtight container. Also freezes well.

Recommended Wines:Vasse Felix Noble Riesling 2000 Evans & Tate Cane Cut Semillon 2001

 

 

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