Dear Reader

I've just been to an outstanding restaurant in Sydney's CBD. The food - both in its presentation and exquisite flavours - was world class. Surprisingly it didn't even rate a mention in the finalists list for the recent Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards, though it was nominated best new restaurant in the Sydney Morning Herald's Good Food Guide 2001 and by the Restaurant and Catering Association's Awards 2001. Admittedly the decor is old-fashioned (the building is heritage-listed) but the food and service are hard to fault.

Indeed the moment you walk up the red carpeted stairs and through the graciously opened doors of Restaurant VII, you know you're in for a special treat. For not only do the staff greet you warmly and seat you respectfully, the arrival of three miniature canapes before you even think of ordering heralds exquisite delights to come. Set on a fine white rectangular plate are a tiny chicken and lemon pepper brochette, a cured salmon and shallot brochette and a marvellous chilled cucumber tube filled with gazpacho - which has to be eaten in one bite. And that's just for starters!

We decide to lash out and choose the Chef's Menu ($140 each). The canape platter is whisked away and is quickly followed by the egg cocotte - a hollowed out pullet's egg shell filled with steamed egg custard, dashi jelly and gingko nut topped with gold leaf.

The presentation is superb - the egg shell sits inside a white egg cup placed on a white saucer and is accompanied by a silver spoon. Next arrives a quartet of appetisers, each one set on a small square white plate which in turn sit inside a large square white plate. The roasted pacific oyster with oriental sauce (a mixture of orange juice, mirin, coriander root and sprouts) topped with julienned vegetables is magnificnet as is the scampi tartar which is marinated with saffron and served in a small shot glass topped with broad bean puree.

The combinations are extraordinary, almost Dali-esque in the way they stretch the palate and break new barriers. We continue. A tiny wedge of grilled sea eel marinated in soy sauce and served with a tangy daikon, eggplant and pickled pineapple salad arrives.

This is followed by the Chef's Soup which is presented in a white demi-tasse cup and is one of the highlights of the meal. Who would believe that a Caesar Salad could be transformed into a soup? It's so bizarre - and in your wildest dreams, you wouldn't think it would work, but there it is - pureed and pale green in colour with a light, frothy top. The flavour is faintly smoky and is given texture by the addition of a few pearls of Lebanese couscous. Stunning!

After this comes a Lobster Cocotte which arrives in a dish sealed with bread dough and a sprig of thyme on top. The waiter breaks open the dough and ladles a crescent of lobster into our white bowls, spooning over the lobster broth, asparagus and nameko mushrooms. Squab en Croute is rare squab breast with foie gras and English spinach wrapped in a divine puff pastry served with a diced beetroot and truffle sauce.

And finally the Japanese Grain Fed Beef served in a mini-casserole with a delicious crispy rice cake, daikon reduction sauce and warm salsify salad. It sounds a lot but believe me, the servings are tiny and you will have room for dessert.

We are presented with three - a puree of fresh strawberries served in a shot glass, a cappuccino brulee and a citrus sorbet with a fingernail serve of marmalade on top. This is truly an extraordinary experience and not to be missed. It is rare to find such dedication and finesse and the two executive shefs - Noriyuki Sugie and Harunobu Inukai - are world class.

It is their combination of Japanese ingredients and presentation with French technique which shines through - Sugie has worked for two years with Tetsuya and Charlie Trotter and Inukai has worked at Robuchon in Tokyo and Ampersand. As is to be expected, the wine list is extensive with an interesting French collection and excellent wines by the glass. Try the Hekiju Kubota sake with the canapes and appetisers, a Tahbilk Viognier with the seafood and a Green Wineyards Pinot Noir with the game or beef.

Lunch: two courses $65; three courses $85;
Chef's degustation menu $110
Dinner (four courses) $110;
Chef's menu $140

Restaurant VII
7 Bridge Street Sydney
Opening Hours:
Tue-Fri 12:00pm - 2:00pm
Tue-Sat 7:00pm - 10:00pm

Tel (02) 9252-7777
Fax (02) 9252 6999
Email: info@vii.com.au

return to current postcard