August 2003

 


Are you going to Scarborough Fair -
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme

Remember when parsley and mint were the only herbs we knew (and grew)? When oregano was considered exotic and we hadn't heard of lemongrass, let alone mitsuba or pandan leaves? Parsley has been to the hairdresser's - it's no longer just curly, it's also flat; common garden mint now comes in scores of varieties
(applemint, spearmint, pineapple mint and 'rau ram' - the hot Vietnamese mint) as does basil (cinnamon basil, lemon basil, licorice and anise).

And just think of the wonderful native herbs which are now being grown commercially like lemon myrtle, native mint and mountain pepper. Today's cooks take most of these for granted. In Australia, we're spoilt because most herbs are available all year round so that even when it's freezing in the southern states it's still possible to find a fresh bunch of basil at the supermarket.

My philosophy when cooking is to use fresh produce as much as possible because not only does it fit the mood and atmosphere of the season, it also has more vibrant flavour and taste. Unless you live in far northern Australia, summery herbs like basil and coriander won't survive the cold. In the depths of winter, it's the perennial herbs like parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme which endure - and which will enhance your favourite soups, casseroles and roasts.

For me, rosemary and lamb are perfect partners but were you aware of the
ways in which rosemary can perfume biscuits and scones? In Ian and Elizabeth Hemphill's latest book 'Herbaceous' (Hardie Grant), there's a recipe for rosemary scones, batches of which were made for
visitors to Somerset Cottage - simply stir a tablespoon of finely chopped leaves into a plain scone mixture before adding the liquid - and watch them disappear - like hot scones!

Sage is a much under-rated herb, though lately it has become fashionable deep-fried and served as a garnish. Top a thin slice of veal with 2-3 sage leaves, cover with a slice of prosciutto. Secure with a toothpick, pan-fry in butter and de-glaze with a little white wine. Saltimbocca!
And don't forget that marvelous French-style stuffed pumpkin which was
all the rage in the 1980's - a whole pumpkin filled with cream, gruyere
cheese, breadcrumbs and braised onions and perfumed with nutmeg and sage
and bake for a couple of hours until tender. It once was a true love of
mine.

 

 

Rosemary Shortbread

A delicious and unusual biscuit recipe given to me by a Greek friend.

1 cup plain white flour
1 cup plain wholemeal flour
½ cup caster sugar
1 egg, beaten
200g softened unsalted butter
1 ½ teaspoons finely chopped rosemary
Pinch salt
Icing sugar

Preheat oven to 180degC. Lightly grease a baking sheet.

Sift flours and sugar into a mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the egg, butter, salt and rosemary. Use your hands to knead the ingredients together. Roll into walnut-sized balls, place on prepared tray and flatten with the back of a fork (dipped in flour to prevent sticking).

Bake 15-20 minutes or until golden. Cool on a rack. Dredge with icing sugar when cold. Store in an air-tight containers with extra rosemary sprigs. Makes about 30.