New Zealand: Flourishing Food and Wines

Looking down as the plane approaches Blenheim on the tip of New Zealand's north island, you see a flat stony floodplain with ridges of soil running in one direction juxtaposed with rows upon rows of upright vines, often just a few metres apart, running at right angles.

It's an arresting sight, and one you're not likely to forget quickly.

This is New Zealand's internationally renowned Marlborough region, which lies nestled in a beautiful valley bordered on three sides by mountain ranges and on the fourth by the sea.

When the Wairau River receded a few centuries ago, its criss-crossing courses left behind wave-like patterns on the land which resulted in ridges of soil running east-west. Cool climate viticulture requires that vineyard rows run north-south to let the sun ripen the grapes on both sides of the vines, hence the neatly patterned effect. This is the "terroir" from which the internationally renowned Marlborough sauvignon blanc wines are produced.

Struggling vines which grow on top of the ridges where the soil is poorer and stonier impart a riper, tropical fruit flavour to the wine while more luxuriant vines which thrive in the silty, more fertile troughs impart greener vibrant flavours like herbs or asparagus.

Climate is also crucial. Marlborough's abundant sunshine (2475 sunshine hours per year), cool nights and long growing season all contribute to building vibrant fruit flavours.

Yet the story isn't even 20 years old. The first plantings in 1974 by Montana were unsuccessful and it wasn't until the mid-1980s when David Hohnen (co-founder of Cape Mentelle Vineyards in Western Australia) and Kevin Judd (one of New Zealand's most respected winemakers) planted Sauvignon Blanc grapes at the Cloudy Bay Vineyard that the region began producing world class wines. Since then the Cloudy Bay label (with the misty Richmond Range in the background) has reached cult status on the European market.

Today Marlborough is the largest wine growing region in New Zealand with 65 wineries, 290 grape growers and more than 4045 hectares in grape production. It didn't take long for international wine companies to realise the potential of the region with French, Swiss and Australian interests now part of the scene.

But try not to be so swept away by Sauvignon Blanc that you miss out sampling some of the other wines now produced in the region - intense Pinot Noirs, elegant sparkling wines, luscious botrytised dessert wines, smoky creamy Chardonnays plus fabulous Gewurtzraminer, Pinot Gris, Semillons and Reislings. And it's not just wine that these unique soils (and climate) produce. They are also the source of much of the region's horticultural fertility - and the reason why Marlborough has become known as the "Gourmet Province of New Zealand". A visit to the farmer's market on Sunday morning is a good place to start. This recent addition to the Marlborough calendar encourages farmers to grow and showcase a wide variety of fruit and vegetables.

At Windsong Orchard in Renwick, organic farmers Brian and Jenny Crum have been experimenting with lesser known table grapes like the fragrant "Niagara", the flavoursome red "Iona" and the black "Schuyler". They also grow 16 varieties of plums and this year trialed scarlet runner beans, an old fashioned variety which delighted many of the older folk in the area.

Pride in regional produce has also been growing, thanks to the efforts of local businessman Chris Knowles (partner at Hotel D'Urville, Blenheim). Knowles is a keen supporter of Peter Wilhelms at Ormand Aquaculture, who produces organic salmon and crayfish, and Stefan Browning who grows organic vegetables (capsicums, chillies, tomatoes, eggplants, rocket, mustard greens, beans). He has just set up a new venture called Cook's Discovery, a culinary experience designed to give an overview of the region.

There are a number of courses to choose from including the three day Cuisine Marlborough weekend, specially designed for overseas visitors, which starts with a cruise on the Marlborough Sounds to gather fresh greenshell mussels, oysters and crayfish, and to sample specialty meats and locally grown olive oil. Day Two is spent with a well-known chef putting it all together. Day Three takes in a tasting tour of some of the vineyards, followed by wine and food matching lessons over dinner back at the hotel.

A shorter Tasting Marlborough course concentrates on giving guests easy home-dining ideas using local produce like the greenshell mussels, organic farmed salmon, wild venison, organic koura and heirloom vegetables. Other options include courses on table olives and olive oil preparation, organic produce and ethnic cuisines.

"I'd love to see Marlborough become New Zealand's first fully organic province" says Knowles. "It's still a bit early because the costs are high but Julia and I both support the producers who are working towards it".

If you don't have time for a cook's tour but want to sample the food of the region, then Jason Dell's food at the hotel's brasserie is an excellent way to start. Dell (New Zealand Chef of the Year in 1996) cooks no-nonsense contemporary New Zealand-style food.

"It's not architecture food," he says emphatically. "I use a lot of fresh local product and let the flavours speak for themselves". Signature dishes include the D'Urville chowder (seafood poached in a creamy broth), Marlborough mussels steamed in a fragrant black bean, tomato, olive oil and fresh herb broth (great with a Sauvignon Blanc) and sticky toffee pudding with hokey pokey ice cream and fresh oranges. He is currently updating the menu - but, due to popular demand, these three will remain.

Over a handful of other good eateries operate in the region, ranging from funky cafes and brasseries to formal haute cuisine. Around the corner from Hotel D'Urville is First Lane Cafe, a delightful place for coffee, breakfast, lunch and picnic fare. Cakes, brownies and muffins are home-baked and there's a variety of baguettes, sourdough buns and baby bagels to choose from.

Further afield is Alan Scott's elegant outdoor vineyard restaurant surrounded by walnut trees and lavender bushes, the charming La Verandah, situated amongst the vines at Rapaura and designed in the style of languid Reunion island dwellings, and the Wairau Winery, a smart mud-brick style building where you can sit outside amongst the vines. Much further afield is Mussel Boys at Havelock, well worth the trip. Havelock is the greenshell capital of the world and you can sample mussels prepared in a variety of ways at this quaint little eatery.

And then there is Herzog, a truly luxurious dining experience run by Therese and Hans Herzog who moved their winery and Michelin star rated restaurant from Switzerland to Marlborough a few years ago. The restaurant wine list here was given an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine for being "one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world".

World class wines, world class wine lists, great eating, friendly locals and glorious scenery - Marlborough has it all.

Marlborough Region

The annual Wine Marlborough festival (held annually in the second week of February) is now an established showcase for the region's bounty and draws people from all over the world.

If you don't want to drive yourself around, the Marlborough Limousine company offers an excellent service, picking you up from your hotel and driving you to various wineries and restaurants in the region. Email marblimos@xtra.co.nz

Hotel D'Urville
52 Queen St
Blenheim
Ph: 03 577 9945
Fax: 03 577 9946
email: hotel@durville.com
website: www.durville.co.nz

Cloudy Bay Winery
Jacksons Road
Rapaura, Blenheim
pH: 03 520 9140

Allan Scott's Wines and Estates
Jackson's Road
Blenheim
pH: 03 572 9054

Isabel Estate Vineyard Ltd
Hawkesbury Rd
Renwick, Marlborough
pH: 03 572 8300

Herzog Winery
Jeffries Road
Blenheim
pH: 03 572 8770

La Verandah Vineyard Cafe & Restaurant
Vintage Road. RD3
Blenheim
pH: 03 572 9177

Wairau Winery
cnr Rapaura Rd and SH6, Blenheim
pH: 03 572 9800

First Lane Cafe
Cnr Main St and First Lane
pH: 03 577 9087

Mussel Boys
Main St
Havelock

Click link above for Hawkes Bay information

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