April 2005

 

 

The sign is easy to spot. Carved in bold letters which stand out in relief from the porous white stone, it simply says 'Honeymoon Guesthouse, Cooking School and Restaurant'. Seated underneath is a large black stone Buddha, red hibiscus in hand; on the other side is the Hindu elephant god Ganesha. A little further along a story from the 'Mahabarata', the great Indian epic, has been carved into the stone wall and is shaded by a bright red poinciana tree.

Walk up five stone steps then down gain and you step into a garden paradise. Luxuriant green shrubbery is interspersed with vivid hits of red and yellow heliconia, scarlet torch ginger and bougainvillea. The air is warm and heavy, redolent with fragrant frangipani and gardenias. The path leads past a small temple and threads through the garden via two homely villas and decorative outdoor pavilions to the large wood-shuttered mansion where the owners live. Further around is an elevated saltwater swimming pool surrounded by stone goddesses plus another two 3-storeyed villas.

Situated near rice fields just ten minutes walk from the heart of Ubud, Honeymoon Guesthouse is an up-scale version of the typical Balinese village compound. Clean and comfortable, there are sixteen rooms currently available with another four (with air-con) planned to open in July. If you ask for one of the newer Balinese style rooms with ensuite bathrooms, fans, hot and cold water and mosquito nets and cool marble-floored verandahs, you won’t be disappointed. Carved teak doors and marble make the rooms look expensive but the rates are very reasonable.

Owners Janet de Neefe and her husband Ketut Suardana have been running the guesthouse for about a decade, steadily improving the property year by year. A cocktail bar and café has been recently added. Happy hour is between 5- 7pm and there are lychee martinis, margaritas and caipiroskas to quench your thirst plus plenty of healthy drinks (watermelon, pineapple, carrot, cucumber). Lemongrass and hibiscus tea are available all day. There is also a fully equipped yoga meditation space and a massage room.

"I wanted to create a safe homely place, not a hotel," says Janet. "Somewhere comfy but more luxurious than a losmen and with all the niceties like breakfast from the bakery and tea on the verandah." Breakfast includes fresh tropical fruits, homemade yogurt and freshly baked breads and pastries from The Honeymoon Bakery. Guests can eat in the café or order tasty meals from the menu of the Casa Luna restaurant (also owned by Janet and Ketut) or walk the short distance into town. Not far away by car is the highly acclaimed Mozaic, where owner/chef Chris Salins offers innovative dishes in a lush garden setting.

 


 

Originally from Melbourne, Janet’s love affair with Bali began thirty years ago with her visit on a family holiday when she was 15. Spellbound by the exotic fragrances, flavours and beauty of Bali, she returned ten years later. On the second day, while dining with a friend at Hotel Tjampuhan (just down the road from Honeymoon Guesthouse) she met her future husband Ketut. Five years later they were married. Janet tells the story in more detail in her book 'Fragrant Rice' (Harper Collins 2003). She also offers glimpses into the local culture and way of life interspersed with many of the recipes from her cooking classes which are held in one of the outdoor pavilions. They’re as close as you’ll get to real Balinese food – unless you’ve been invited into a compound by one of the local villagers.

"Traditional Balinese food is an important aspect of the culture," she explains. "It is surrounded by complex customs related to the meaning of food, the function of food and the distinct value systems of the people. A guest in a Balinese home is subject to a system of etiquette covering food, drink and behaviour. Cakes must be offered with coffee or tea, nuts and ‘krupuk’ with rice wine, and a meal with tea, water or palm wine. The host may not partake."

The classes are informal and friendly, as is the atmosphere at Honeymoon Guesthouse. . A former art teacher, she is a good communicator and will fill you in on local folklore interspersed with humorous asides and plenty of food and cooking tips. Sitting in the outdoor pavilion surrounded by luxuriant gardens and sipping home-made chilled bright pink hibiscus tea is as close as you’ll get to heaven.

http://www.casalunabali.com/guesthouse.html