Turkish Delights

“Do not dismiss the dish saying that it is just simply food.  The blessed dish is an entire civilization in itself!”
- Abdulhak Sinasi

Move over Tuscany and make way for Aegean Turkey.
This stunning region which stretches from Cannakale (on the Dardanelles) in the north to Bodrum in the south is one of Turkey’s richest  – and rapidly becoming a serious rival to Italy’s top-rating region.
Flanked by the sparkling Aegean Sea and dotted with picturesque bays, coves and  fishing villages, its fertile soils boast rolling wheat fields, olive groves and citrus, stone fruit and fig orchards while its Mediterranean climate ensures hot summers and mild winters.
According to Herodotus, the famous ancient historian of Bodrum, the Aegean shores have “the most beautiful skies and the best climate in the world”.
The variety and number of its well-preserved ruins is incomparable – and it is in this region that Homer’s myths and heroes come to life.
For millennia, numerous civilizations including the Greek and Roman have fought over its beauty and bounty and made it their home.
Today, over a third of Turkey’s population inhabit Aegean Turkey. Tourists are attracted to its fine sandy beaches, yachting and nightlife and to its ancient cities, temples, amphitheatres and agoras.
It was at Sirince, a charming little village nestled in the hills behind Ephesus, that I was most struck by the similarity of the landscape to Tuscany.
As our bus wove its way around the narrow winding road leading up to the village, we drove past vineyards, olive groves and peach and apple orchards.  The locals are passionate fruit farmers and famous in the region for their olive oil and wines, some of which are made from local peaches, apples and strawberries.  We sampled some at the numerous stalls along the cobbled village streets on our way to ‘Ocabasi’, a delightful little restaurant on a hill overlooking the town. 
The villagers (there are only 800 of them) were very friendly, greeting us with a ready smile and offering us cups of tea while showing off their home-made breads, olive oil soaps and hand-embroidered cotton tablecloths and napkins. Sirince is full of little tea gardens where you can sit and drink tea or aryan (a delicious savoury yoghurt drink) and eat ‘gozleme’, a kerchief-sized sheet of thin pastry folded over and filled to order with either spinach, eggplant, cheese, potatoes or mincemeat. 

Mediterranean Diet
But we were headed for the restaurant and didn’t want to indulge before lunch. Just as well, because ‘gozleme’ were on the menu that day along with a number of other typical Turkish specialties and we were lucky enough to catch Zeynep Yildirdi, the owner-chef, busy rolling out the pastry by an open fire.  She’d also prepared a spicy lamb casserole and a rustic white bean dish, both of which sat bubbling away on the old stovetop adjacent to the fire.  And for starters, a range of ‘mezze’ which included local black olives, cokelek (a light moist cheese), smoky eggplant dip, dolma (stuffed vegetables) and fried peppers. We sat outside on the open terrace looking out over the quaint terracotta-tiled houses and if it hadn’t been for the pretty minaret, I could have sworn I was in a village somewhere amid the rolling Tuscan hills.  Even some of the dishes (like the local olives, the grilled vegetables and the white beans) are similar to peasant-style Tuscan dishes.
The rustic earthy food we ate here was among the tastiest and most authentic I tasted while travelling around western Turkey.  Typical of  regional home cooking, it was simple and flavourful with the emphasis on grains, vegetables, olive oil and yogurt (said to have been invented by Turkish nomads).
Meat is used sparingly and combined with chickpeas and other pulses to make it go further (‘poor man’s meat’).  Even with meat kebabs, “pide” or flat bread occupies the largest portion along with vegetables or yoghurt. Vegetables are used when in season. Eggplants, for example, come in all shapes and sizes and there are hundreds of recipes for preparing them, including eggplant jam (which tastes like bananas) and the famous ‘imam bayildi’ which is stuffed and served at room temperature.  In fact, Turkish cooks seem to be engaged in an enduring love-affair with the eggplant!

‘Saray’ (Palace) Cuisine
While not popular with the more sophisticated Istanbullus (who fancy themselves as Europeans with a taste for milder more delicate flavours), this wholesome nourishing food is an excellent example of the Mediterranean diet, a style of eating we are increasingly encouraged to follow by nutritionists.
As Claudia Roden points out in “Arabesque” (Penguin 2005), regional cuisines were hardly known outside their localities until the arrival in Istanbul of millions of migrants from rural areas over the last couple of decades.
As in Italy, food varies widely from region to region throughout Turkey and even from village to village.
For the visitor, many of these spicy, hot, garlicky dishes can now be found in various  ‘lokanta’ and ‘meyhane’ in the bigger cities like Istanbul. 
But for the Istanbullus, says Roden, such strongly flavoured food represents the ‘Arab’ and ‘Oriental’ tastes of provincials who have swamped their once cosmopolitan city and changed its image in a way they do not like.
“Istanbul, this dream of the Orient with her cupolas and minarets, ‘hamams’ (old-style bath houses) and bazaars, is torn between town and country, East and West, tradition and modernization, but remains attached to her past and her culinary memories and legacies.”
It was in Istanbul (formerly known as Constantinople) that a sophisticated aristocratic cuisine developed during the glittering years of the Ottoman Empire, a cuisine considered by culinary historians to be on a par with the great cuisines of France and China. 
Here, in the massive kitchens at Topkapi Palace, hundreds of chefs eager to please the royal palate perfected ‘Saray’ (Palace) cuisine. 

Once Mehmet 11 conquered Constantinople in 1453, he filled the kitchens at Topkapi Palace with specialist chefs like the ‘borekci’ (maker of savoury pastries), the ‘kofteci(maker of meatballs) and the ‘baklavaci’ (maker of syrupy pastries).
During the 16th century when Europe still had no sophisticated culinary identity, they were at their experimental peak. The glorious rule of Suleyman the Magnificent (1520 – 66) was studded with lavish banquets. He was the first to bring the harem into the Palace, a practice which more than likely resulted in such descriptive dishes as meaty ladies thighs, sweet syrupy ladies’ navels, Grand Viziers’ fingers, young girls’ breasts  and sweetheart’s lips – to name just a few!.
Cooking came to be considered one of the most important of the arts with poets, princes and physicians writing recipes, songs and poems about food.
One of these was the great Sufi mystical poet Jal al Din Rumi, who taught that cooking should be undertaken only in an attitude of deep respect.
“Those who use ingredients of food without consideration of providing the best possible means of an ingredient’s expression are devaluing service, awareness and value of life.”
Many Palace cooks were Sufis who cooked instinctively ‘by feel’ and taste while at the same time observing the strictures of  spiritual life.
Mind you, even at the empire’s height, the majority of Turks didn’t have access to the astounding variety and quantity of food available to the wealthy.  While ‘Saray’ cuisine celebrated abundance, regional and village cuisine developed to make more of less.
Fortunately for today’s traveller, Turkey offers the best of both worlds – gourmet Ottoman dishes at five star hotels like the sumptuous Ciragan Kempinski Hotel in Istanbul and more homely-style dishes in villages like Sirince and in various ‘lokanta’ throughout the country (‘lokanta’ is the earliest Turkish word for restaurant and comes from the Italian meaning ‘inn’.)
With its glorious landscape, ancient treasures and colourful flavourful food, Turkey is a feast even when you’re not eating.  Now that Europe is so expensive,
Turkey is becoming an increasingly popular destination – and not just for tourists.
Keep an eye out for the next British TV mini-series on pale Brits decamping there and choosing it for their sea change instead of Tuscany.  And for the next best-selling memoir
“Under the Turkish Sun” (with film rights, of course)!

Sheridan Rogers flew to Istanbul as a guest of Turkish Airlines and travelled with Grethe Knudsen’s “Turkey: Crossroads of Civilization” tour. For more details contact her on
02 9899 2740 or grethe@bigpond.net.au. 
Turkish Airlines (ex Bangkok) :
Ph. 02 9299 8400  www.turkishairlines.com

‘Portakali pilic’
(Chicken in Spicy Orange Sauce)

This delicious recipe originates from the south of Turkey around Mersin where sweet, thin-skinned juicy oranges are abundant. Depending on the strength of the chillies, it can be quite hot which is why the cooling yoghurt-mint mixture is an accompaniment.
Serves 4

6 chicken thighs or breasts or 8 drumsticks
1 ½ tbsp olive oil
15 g butter
2 red onions, sliced
4 – 5 cloves garlic, crushed with salt
2 small thin-skinned orange, washed, each cut into 8 segments with peel on
1 tsp nigella seeds (optional)
2 tsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp currants, soaked in water for ½ hour
1 tbsp honey
1 fragrant cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 – 3 long chillies, slit down the middle
A few fresh mint leaves
Juice of one orange
150 – 200 ml water
salt and freshly ground pepper

Garnish:
4 tbsp natural yoghurt
1 tbsp freshly chopped mint

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy-bottomed casserole and cook the chicken pieces until golden all over.  Remove to a plate covered with paper towels.
Add the onions, garlic, orange segments, nigella and coriander sees and cook for 2 –3 minutes.  Stir in the currants, honey, cinnamons, chillies and mint leaves.  Our in the orange juice and water.  Bring to the boil then turn down heat and simmer for about ten minutes.  Return chicken pieces to the pan and simmer gently, covered, for 25 – 30 minutes or until chicken is cooked.
To serve: remove cinnamon stick and chilli pepper and check seasoning.  Combine yoghurt and chopped mint. Serve it as an accompaniment to the chicken or swirl it through the dish just prior to serving.

(This recipe is from a fabulous book entitled “Classic Turkish Cookery” by Ghilli Basan).

  
Travel facts
Getting there
Turkish Airlines fly daily to Istanbul ex-Bangkok : Ph. 02 9299 8400  www.turkishairlines.com Email: <customer@thy.com>
Qantas, Thai, British Airways and Emirates fly daily to Bangkok ex Sydney.
Singapore Airlines fly four times a week Singapore-Istanbul.
Emirates fly daily to Istanbul via Dubai.
Gulf Air fly daily to Istanbul via Bahrain.

Where To Stay
Ciragan Palace Kempinski/Istanbul
Now you can stay where once the great Sultans lived – and even though they are long gone, Ciragan Palace still breathes luxury, opulence, elegance and comfort. Ciragan Palace has undergone comprehensive refurbishment and is in fact  two hotels: The Sultan’s Palace itself and, in the spacious grounds of the palace, a grand hotel built in the spirit of five star deluxe luxury of its traditional neighbour.
All rooms have been upgraded and re-classified. All Ciragan Palace guests can sample the culinary riches of the hotel’s five restaurants. Among them is the exquisite Tugra restaurant, with its terrace opening onto the shores of the Bosphorus-perhaps the finest restaurants in all Turkey. You can choose from a selection of traditional Ottoman dishes and fine international cuisine, savouring the flavours to the gentle sounds of authentic Ottoman music.
www.ciragan-palace.com

Four Seasons/Istanbul
For a hundred years or more, the imposing building in the shadows of St Sophia and the Blue Mosque served as a bastille. Here, the artists and poets who displeased the rulers of old were incarcerated. Now the grand old building has served its time and has been rehabilitated to become a work of art in its own right. The Four Seasons is the only five star deluxe hotel in the old part of the city.
www.fourseasons.com/istanbul

The Swissotel Bosphorus/Istanbul
A five star deluxe rated hotel with one of the best views of the Bosphorus.
Here on the Western side, is the Dolmabahce Palace and Mosque while in the distance you can see the slopes of the Sultanahmet district, dominated by the spires and minarets of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. Across the Strait can be seen the higgledy-piggledy mix of ancientness and modernity, interspersed with leafy trees which line the shores of the Asian sector – while all the time packed ferries and bustling little fishing boats lace their way between mighty freighters along the Strait itself.
Within the tastefully landscaped hotel complex are no less than nine restaurants and six bars. 
www.istanbul.swissotel.com

Taksim Suites/ Istanbul
Brand new luxury designer suites completely outfitted with state-of-the-art European kitchens, Jacuzzis, top-of-the-line sound systems, and modem lines for Internet connections.
www.taximsuites.com

Hotel Empress Zoe/ Istanbul
This hotel is a master creation drawing from Byzantium, Anatolia, and a little bit of Santa Fe thrown in for good measure, designed and hand–painted by the owner's brother-in-low. The hotel overlooks the crumbling remnants of the oldest hamam in the city, and from the rooftop terrace, the only obstruction is the Marmara Sea.
www.emzoe.com

Kalyon Hotel
A modern two storey which overlooks the Marmara Sea.  Located close to the old city. Very comfortable with modern amenities.
www.kalyon.com
Ph. 90 (212) 517 4400  Fax. 90 (212) 638 1111

Korumar Hotel/Kusadasi
Less than a mile from the city center of Kusadasi and situated on a spectacular cliff, the Korumar offers fantastic resort facilities.  It also boasts one of the largest outdoor swimming pools on the Aegean plus a small sheltered pebble beach and sparkling cove (where you can swim). The hotel was last renovated in 1999, leaving the rooms-all with balconies-freshly equipped with satellite TV, safes, hair dryers, and bidets. Kusadasi is the best place to stay for those who wish to explore the great city of Ephesus.
www.korumar.com.tr

Nisanyan Evleri/ Sirince
Three renovated houses at the top of Sirince’s hillside offer total immersion into the daily rhythm of the village life. Each house sleeps a minimum of two, but can comfortably accommodate four or a maximum of six people. A hamper overflowing with fresh eggs, village butter, jam, cheese, and bread is delivered to each house daily.
www.nisanyan.com

Getting around
Sirince, Aegean Turkey: Located 8 kilometres east of Selcuk (not far from Ephesus), the best way to get there is by taxi from Kusadasi (approx 40 minutes) or by minibus from Selcuk. Several local people have set up small restaurants in their gardens, some specialising in gözleme – and you mustn’t leave here without tasting this simple but delicious dish.
Feriye, Istanbul:   Kabatas Kultur Merkezi, Ciragan Caddesi 124, Ortakoy (00 90 212 227 2216). Feriye is situated in the grounds of a summer palace on the shores on the Bosphorus. Owner-chef Vedat Basaran has studied ancient texts to recreate Ottoman court cooking – and he re-creates them in a modern way. Open daily from noon to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm.

Foreign Newspapers and Books
Newspapers are available at many newsagents in towns and cities. The Ankara ‘Daily News’, an English language daily newspaper, is widely available in hotels.
Internet, Telephone Calls and Faxes.
You will find an Internet Café in most of the towns and also in some hotels. In common with the rest of the world’s hotels, rates for phone calls and faxes sent from the hotels are charged at a very high rate depending on the transmission times. Fax machines are used widely in Turkey and most faxes from home will be delivered although there are some breakdowns. Phone cards can be used nearly everywhere.

Laundry
Very few hotels have guest laundry facilities, however most offer a laundry service which is expensive. A personal clothes line is an advisable piece of equipment when travelling, and clothing usually dries out overnight.

Electrical Appliances
Turkish power points are able to serve the European two round pronged plugs for which adaptors should be purchased prior to departure overseas. Most hotels have hair dryers fitted to the bathroom wall. There are some TV sets in hotel rooms, but not all rooms are equipped with refrigerators.

Tipping
When dining alone, 10% should be the minimum tip for the person who served you and this may constitute a very large part of his weekly income. Generally speaking, anyone who performs a personal service should be tipped and the baggage carriers at the hotels should also be included. $1 is appropriate.
Money.
DO NOT CHANGE YOUR $US or $A BEFORE ARRIVAL IN TURKEY. WHEN YOU LEAVE TURKEY GET RID OF YOUR TURKISH LIRA AT THE AIRPORT. American Express payments for goods purchased always cause delays and a surcharge, so please pay with MasterCard or Visa Cards. Travellers cheques in US $, DM, or Sterling are welcome, but cash in US $ is the best way to pay and to exchange readily. Flexitellers are widespread. Hotels are usually happy to change notes and their rates are very comparable to banks.

Currencies
Anyone in Turkey will gladly accept US$ (never Australian $) for any purchases you may make on your first day . Take 2 credit cards in case an ATM swallows one. Take traveller's cheques if you feel safer this way. Beware of pickpockets in some crowded city areas so keep your money close to your body and do not leave it or valuables when leaving your hotel room.
Passports
You may be asked to hand your passport to the receptionist at some hotels. A visa is now required for entry into Turkey and you should be ready to pay US$20 immediately upon arrival.
Water
Best to drink only bottled water.

Restaurants
There is a large choice of restaurant types in Turkey. There are many international class restaurants in the major cities, and everywhere in the country, a large number of small popular restaurants offer simple but tasty dishes, reflecting the local areas. Some quite good ones are located close to the Kalyon Hotel. At most of the establishments along the road, there is lamb roasted on a revolving spit, salads and fresh vegetables with rice. If you cannot understand the names of the dishes, you are welcome to go into the kitchen and choose from the pots.  Bottled water is a ‘must’ except at major hotels where it will be served in a jug.
Shopping. Sopping is one of the delights of a trip to Turkey, and the variety of Turkish crafts means that you end up buying something. The most popular purchases for the tourist are the carpets, the varieties of leather and suede goods, copper and bronze ware, silver, ceramics, embroidery, textiles, Turkish meerschaum and onyx. Gold is also a good buy, although you need to know the comparative price at home per carat to make the best buys. It is worth looking around for the best buys and to take note of the best prices before you decide to buy. Do not make a counter-offer unless you intend to buy. It is considered very bad manners to bargain and agree on a price and then not to buy. Sometimes a shopkeeper will say that a price is his best, and you will only know it is if you have checked other prices at other shops. In some shops you will be offered coffee, tea or soft drinks as you talk about the goods and prices. This should be accepted and does not mean that you are obliged to purchase goods from that shop. This particularly applies in carpet shops, so the demonstration becomes a social occasion. Be warned about buying carpets and paying out large amounts of money on your own. Ask your guide or tour leader to advise you. Carpets can be insured and sent back home if you pay an additional amount.

WARNING.
IT IS ADVISABLE TO BUY CARPETS AT SHOPS WHERE THE GUIDE IS ABLE TO FOLLOW UP NON DELIVERY OF CARPETS.
Hospitality.
Hospitality (Turk Misafirperverligi) is one of the cornerstones of the Turkish way of life. Following Koranic tenets, and naturally friendly instincts, the Turk is a most generous and gracious host. Even the poorest peasant feels bound to honour his guest ‘misafir’ in the best possible manner. Hospitality is taken to such lengths that travellers often feel that they are suffering from a surfeit of it, after being plied with food and drinks for hours and being unable to refuse anything lest the host’s feelings are hurt. The Turk also makes every effort to converse no matter what the linguistic barriers may be. While most middle-class Turks speak at least one European language, even the uneducated ones struggle to make themselves understood, with remarkable success. Charm and good manners make the Australian and New Zealand travellers very popular in Turkey

Turkish Coffee Houses
Even the smallest village has its coffee house or ‘kahve’ where the retired men of the village talk, sip coffee and play the national game of backgammon, ‘tavla’. In some places the men can still be found smoking their hubble-bubble pipes, ‘nargile.’
Turkish Baths
Because of the emphasis placed on cleanliness by Islam, there have been public bathhouses, ‘hamam’, in Turkey since medieval times. There are usually separate baths for men and women, on separate days for each gender, when there is only one bathhouse in the town. This method of bathing is most invigorating and refreshing although during the massage you may wonder why you have allowed yourself to be thus tortured. Many of the bathhouses are very interesting architecturally, and some are attached to the hotels at which we stay. Some bathhouses provide a massage

Useful books:
Lonely Planet Turkey – Travel Survival Kit
World Food Turkey (Lonely Planet)  – A guide to the food traditions and home cooking of Turkey

For further information and brochures on Turkey, contact:
The Turkish Consulate General
66 Ocean St
Woollahra Sydney
Ph. 02 93281155
Email <TurkishConsulateGeneralSydney>